Northern Horizons - Part 3 Cross Country Motorcycle Journey #

The Road to Glacier #

With Yellowstone closed due to the wildfire, I set my sights north toward Glacier National Park. The land of Big Sky lived up to its name, though smoke still hazed the distant horizons. I pressed on along scenic Route 89, finding entertainment in how even the cattle seemed to watch with interest as I passed through these remote areas.

The scope of Montana’s elevation changes really hit home when I realized I’d been riding along a plateau for nearly 30 miles before discovering the dramatic drop at its edge.

The Blackfoot Reservation #

Entering the Blackfoot Indian Reservation brought its own adventures. While the locals were a bit rough around the edges and panhandlers were common at gas stations, I met an interesting group of riders - two on metric cruisers and two on nicely prepped ZX10s.

We ended up riding together, and despite my SV’s power disadvantage on the straights, I had no trouble keeping up in the corners. The group dynamics made for some spirited riding as we approached what would become one of the highlights of my journey: the Going-to-the-Sun Road.

Glacier National Park: A Motorcyclist’s Paradise #

The park immediately showcased its grandeur:

While my riding companions wanted to maintain their spirited pace, I was more interested in soaking in the scenery. We parted ways with good wishes, and I continued at my own pace, discovering wonders like the Weeping Wall - a series of waterfalls that splash directly onto the road.

Meeting the Old Guard #

While shooting photos, I met two older gentlemen - Sam on a '95 BMW K75S and Randy on an early 90s Wing. Their happy-go-lucky attitude was infectious, and they generously offered to share their campsite, a welcome solution to the expensive camping fees. We exchanged numbers and agreed to meet later, as we were traveling the road in different directions.

The views continued to amaze:

Wind Challenge #

One particular corner came with a warning about cross winds - an understatement if ever there was one. The wind hit me head-on with such force that my tach dropped nearly a grand as the bike struggled to maintain momentum. Even stopping for photos was a challenge as the gusts tried to push both me and the bike into the rocks.

Unexpected Companionship #

At the campsite, I reunited with Sam and Randy. We shared stories over a dinner of black beans, rice, and sausage. Sam mentioned he was headed to Alaska by way of Jasper/Banff - the same direction I was planning to go. The prospect of having a travel companion was appealing, so I decided to depart with Sam in the morning while Randy headed west to Oregon.

Morning Visitors #

Dawn brought an unexpected welcome committee - two stallions outside my tent, surprisingly sociable:

I took one more pass across Going-to-the-Sun Road in the clearer morning light:

The Canadian Adventure Begins #

The journey north with Sam revealed his eccentric nature. His “well-planned route” involved increasingly frequent questions to me, and his need for regular pipe tobacco stops added an interesting rhythm to our travel.

Border Crossing Comedy #

The customs experience proved memorable - Sam’s overly friendly and quirky demeanor didn’t exactly smooth our passage. We both had to pull over for thorough inspections and background checks, a process that consumed nearly an hour and a half.

Banff and Jasper: The Crown Jewels #

With all camping at Banff and Lake Louise fully booked (as my father had warned), we headed north toward the glacier icefields near Jasper. The scenery was nothing short of spectacular:

We even encountered some local wildlife:

The Hostel Night #

After some confusion with a ranger about camping arrangements, we ended up in a grassy area behind a pavilion. While others shared the exile, I was the only one resembling a body bag in my bivy sack. The night was cold, but things got interesting when I was awakened by the sound of another SV.

In my sleeping bag-constrained excitement, I managed to hop over to greet the late arrivals - Ben on a black SVS with race fairings, and his girlfriend on a tiny CBR125. We agreed to talk more in the morning.

Parting Ways #

The next day, Sam continued his journey north while I stayed to chat with Ben and his girlfriend. They shared their delicious raspberry cobbler and provided invaluable advice about British Columbia, including a map marked with points of interest and a tip about some hidden hot springs.

Hot Springs and Culture Shock #

Following Ben’s advice, I found the hot springs and improvised some swim trunks from a pair of cargo pants. The experience was uniquely Canadian - picture a natural hot tub for 200+ people, filled with an incredibly reserved crowd. The social dynamics were fascinating; even typically rambunctious kids sat quietly at the edges while everyone whispered amongst themselves.

Vancouver Bound #

After a refreshing stay in Jasper, I took the scenic Route 1 west through the beautiful town of Kelowna and on to Vancouver. The city impressed me with its beauty and character, though I could see how island-hopping for daily commutes might get old. Vancouver definitely earned a spot on my “must return” list for a proper visit.

Stay tuned for Part 4: Down the Pacific Coast - Oregon to Santa Cruz

This is part 3 of a 5-part series documenting my cross-country motorcycle journey. Follow along as I make my way from Philadelphia to the Pacific Coast and back, covering over 12,000 miles of American roads.